Home 'real' cider making |
Firstly to determine your final alcohol level, you need to do a few simple calculations. What you need handy is your original gravity (OG), and your final gravity (FG), which are taking with the hydrometer.
NOTE: Original Gravity is taken when you first being ferment. Final Gravity is taken when fermentation has ceased.
CRITICAL CALCULATION: I will be using two fictional gravity readings to illustrate how to calculate the final alcohol. Just follow the formula with your own specific readings:
OG: 1.060 and FG: 1.005
1.060 - 1.005 = 0.055 (this number needs to be multiplied by 105)
0.055 x 105 = 5.78% a.b.w (alcohol by weight)
To convert a.b.w to a.b.v (alcohol by volume) multiply by 1.25
5.78 x 1.25 = 7.21% a.b.v (alcohol by volume)
Therefore the final alcohol is 7.21%
Carbonation
A consideration you need to think about is if you want bubbles in your cider. In cider lingo, a 'still' cider means strictly no bubbles. The cider is practically flat, and can sometimes come across as a little boring. Through my experiences, most people like a little carbonation in their cider, but not to the point of a fizzy soft drink. A slightly carbonated cider adds life and vibrancy to the palate, and offers another dimension of interest. If you want a still, you would bottle at this point and let it age. If you want to define your style with some fizz, then follow my next set of steps.
NOTE: The ciders I produce through my methods are semi clear post secondary fermentation, but do have some harmless yeast deposits in the bottle. These can be easily decanted on pouring to a glass.
Filled bottles |
CRITICAL ADDITIONS: To bulk prime to a nice soft carbonation level, add 10g/L white sugar dissolved in water to your batch and mix well. For example in 50L's, 50L's x 10g/L = 500g's of sugar. For yeast, if you can find EC1118 then add this at 400ppm to your sugared up cider in the fermenter. If you can't find this yeast, any substitute will do. Again, 50L's x 400ppm / 1000 = 20g's.Remember, this method of cider making will produce a dry, higher alcohol and semi clear cider. There are alternatives to sweeten which I will explain later. Also, DO NOT add anymore sugar than what I have stated - double check your volumes and calculations. If so, you run the risk of exploding bottles which is a extreme hazard if glass is involved.
Now that the cider is sweetened up and the optional yeast has been added, it's time to bottle. What ever you choose to bottle in - plastic, 330mL, 500mL or 750mL glass, just remember that the larger sparkling wine bottles take a 29mm crown seal. This larger crown seal also means you need to purchase the corresponding bell for correct application. The 330mL and 500mL's take a smaller and more easily available 26mm crown seal.
Bottling is simple and can be a bit of fun. I always find it a special time, as you are bottling something 'you' made. The method for bottling varies, and is completely unique to your set up. But fill your bottles to a respectable level, leaving some head space and then cap. There should not be much yeast lees on the bottom of the fermenter as you have racked at least three times. If there is some, just discard it down the drain.
Priming and Ageing
So the cider is in bottle and ready for secondary fermentation. You're almost at the point where you can enjoy your spoils! Unfortunately, patience is required with this next step. It's understandable that you would want to devour your freshly made cider, but it needs time. It needs time to develop flavour, develop complexity and develop a fine carbonation. The absolute minimum is around the two to three weeks from bottle to consumption. But I have cider from roughly two years ago, and it's only getting better - contrary to popular believe that cider doesn't age. Let your bottles age and ferment in a cool place, away from any extreme heat and temperature fluctuations. This ensures a nice, steady secondary with no off flavour development. Malo lactic fermentation or MLF, is a process where malic acid (a harsh tasting acid found in apples) is converted to lactic acid (a much softer acid) by lactic acid bacteria. During your bottle priming, you may get some spontaneous MLF happening, which softens the palate and makes the cider more microbial stable. Any SO2 additions post ferment will kill off these bacteria, and MLF will not initiate.
NOTE: Bulk priming in glass is just one method of carbonating home brew cider. Force priming with CO2 in 19L cornelius kegs, and dispensing from a tap is definitely an option - but costly. A counter pressure filler is also an option which let's you bottle forced carbonated cider from keg to bottle, but again harsh on the wallet. My method is easy, cheap and effective, with no fuss.
Cider ageing in old oak |
Congratulations!! After a short wait, you will be drinking your very own handcrafted and 'real' cider. No muck, no concentrates, no added sugars. Pure and better for you. If you are considering making cider at home, I hope my guide gives you the inspiration and confidence to give it a go. Trust me, you'll have a lot of fun and learn heaps whilst you do it. Also, I would love to hear of your experiences - be it bad or good. Good luck!!
Wassail! Finished product |
Happy cider making, Cider Masters!
Here’s to thee, old apple-tree,
Whence thou mayst bud, and whence thou mayst blow,
And whence thou mayst bear apples enow!
Hats-full! Caps-full!
Bushel, bushel sacks-full!
And my pockets full, too! Hurra!
Cheers!
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